Archive | Finishing

ecodye – Swiss companies Schoeller and Textilcolor develop revolutionary polyester dyeing

Frozen drop of waterecodye – an exciting new development, resulting from a Swiss collaboration between
textile manufacturer Schoeller and auxiliaries and dyes specialists at Textilcolor. ecodye is a new
auxiliary concept used, in particular, in polyester dyeing processes. The technology accelerates the
dyeing process and contributes to cutting costs, while at the same time helping to preserve the
environment with a low level of demand on resources.
Less time, less water, less energy – the new ecodye auxiliary concept allows eco-friendly and cost-saving
dyeing processes for polyester yarns and piece goods. It shortens the heating phase, thus accelerating process
time by more than 30 percent. At the same time, it reduces energy consumption by 20 percent and the water
requirement by 25 percent, as the goods can be cleaned in the cooling dye bath.
In addition, ecodye improves the dyeing levelness in polyester textiles. Spots and dye agglomeration are almost
completely avoided, and the precipitation on the goods that arises as a result of polyester oligomers are no
longer evident. ecodye provides good shade stability and avoids reproduction problems from batch to batch,
thus reducing the rate of double staining and increasing the capacity utilization and productivity of the dyeing
mill on a long-term basis.
Following a successful launch phase, ecodye has already been able to provide numerous positive test results.
The technology is being used by polyester-processing customers in categories including outdoor, sportswear
and technical knitted fabrics, primarily in Europe, South and Middle America, Turkey, Bangladesh and China.
“ecodye is an auxiliary of the future. It requires not only great expertise in the development of the auxiliary
concept but also in the textile application. We are pleased to have been able to develop this advanced product
in successful partnership with Textilcolor,” said Hans Kohn, COO of Schoeller Technologies AG.
The new technology has been proven to provide an eco-friendly and cost-saving dyeing process. ecodye is
bluesign ® -certified and is suitable for all textile forms, machines and substrates, as well as existing dye recipes.
It requires no additional investment or conversion. The potential savings for each application can be individually
computed using a specially-developed calculation program.

Posted in Finishing

Fong ́s Europe – Smart German Engineering

Goller Sintensa Cyclone

Goller Sintensa Cyclone

How to become greener than green or more efficient than efficient? The latest developments
of the CHTC FONG`S GROUP with its team in Schwäbisch Hall in Germany created best
green technology for their customers’ benefits.

FONG`S EUROPE GMBH with its strong brands FONG`S, THEN, GOLLER and XORELLA
represents innovative dyeing and finishing machines made in Germany or of Chinese origin.
Clear target profiles based on customers’ requirements and the long-lasting experience lead
to several new developments with the potential to be a big step into a difference.

Since the beginning, the Longtube-machine is the incarnation of gentle dyeing processes for
most sensitive textile fabrics. All kind of synthetics like polyester or polyamide even with high
elastic stretching behavior or delicate native fibers like viscose and high quality cotton and
blends can be dyed on this most versatile machine type for decades. Long shape machines
are well known and are used where round shape types are limited. But why do we use it only
if round shape designs cannot fulfill the requirements with its results? The reason is … Liquor
The consumption figures of long shape machines lead to liquor ratios up to 1:20. Loading
capacities depending on fabric weight, its behavior and batch size demand a permanent
adjustment of the liquor ratio related dyestuff amount, auxiliary consumption and salt amount
if needed. The high water costs and the energy to heat it up urge the textile finishing industry
to look for alternatives. A low liquor consuming long shape machine without losing its
versatile, gentle application behavior is for sure a top target for the global players among the
finishing machine manufacturers.

FONG`S EUROPE GMBH developed after intensive discussion with dye houses all over the
world a new machine as an answer to be ahead.

THEN SUPRATEC LTM shows its true color in its consumption figures. Up to 50% lower
liquor ratio particularly for light weight fabrics makes the machine to a quick return on
investment and builds a solid column to be competitive also in future. THEN SUPRATEC
LTM is reel-less and can be equipped with up to 3 nozzles depending on fabric weight.

Even after installation, the number of transfer pipes and ropes can be adjusted between one
and three. The nozzle gap is adjustable.

Gentle plaiting and lifting in the machine lead to tension reduced running behavior. The
machine can be tailor made, equipped with innovative efficient dosing devices. The unique
lifting device of the whole kier provides a new dimension in application flexibility. Wet mode
or dry mode, jet or overflow principle or even a mix of both during one finishing process meet
the request of lowest possible consumption figures in long shape machines.

The GOLLER SINTENSA principle with perforated drums and inner driven rotors for
intensive wash off is a well proven and well accepted system for spin oil and print washing of
tension sensitive fabrics like knitwear, high elastic woven or technical textiles. The kinetic
energy of the washing system reduces water versus dwell or spray washing and leads to
fulfill high fastness requirements. SINTENSA CYCLONE represents the next design-
generation of the GOLLER brand. The unique CYCLONE principle provides low tension and
low water consumption while washing off even large-molecular dyestuffs or complex spin
oils. The geometry of the new rotor allows a suction of liquor through the fabric with a high
flow rate and therefore an efficient treatment in every washing compartment. Tension and
fabric guidance can easily be controlled by the rotor speed. The fabric will be sucked to the
drum at the entry of the trough and released at its exit.


Round shaped finishing machines are the most common types used for dyeing and finishing
textiles discontinuously. Even the latest generations of aerodynamic and hydraulic transport
systems with their very low liquor ratio have to be developed progressively to further
reduction in consumption, as water is getting more and more a valuable good. The deep
knowledge and expertise of the THEN brand team and the clear definition of customers’
needs led to a new design in the pipeline of the FONG ́S research and development
department. Shortly we will provide a new level of short liquor ratio also in the segment of
round shape machines. The latest design of THEN airflow technology and hydraulic
machines is continuing the success story to make dyeing greener and more efficient.

Posted in Finishing

Brückner to offer sustainable solutions at ITMA Milan

Sustainable, effective, with competent advisory service – this is how BRÜCKNER present themselves on ITMA 2015. The technology and world market leader for machinery and line systems in the sector of coating and finishing of textiles, technical textiles, nonwovens and floor coverings, in most cases special solutions according to the customers’ requests, offers advisory competence due to decades of experience, innovative, clever ideas and technologically highly qualified experts. Intensive research and development resulted in many new lines and components for textiles, nonwovens and coated woven and knitted fabric. Sustainability means for BRÜCKNER the development and production of energy-optimized textile finishing machines, high-quality products and advanced technology “made in Germany”. BRÜCKNER offers new ideas for better products, a detailed and comprehensive requirement analysis and advisory service on the customer’s site to optimize the energy consumption.


BRÜCKNER presents in Milan for the first time the new ECOLINE machine concept combining in a unique way feature, which had been separate up to now. The outstanding attributes of the new ECOLINE concept are the air-through zone in the first half-zone and an integrated heat-recovery unit. This allows the saving of thermal energy and production increases. The dryer is provided with the proven alternating and split-flow air circulating system ensuring an optimum temperature distribution. All established heating systems are available (gas direct, gas indirect, thermal oil, steam). Almost any kind of woven and knitted fabric can be treated.


In the field of application technology BRÜCKNER presents a new development for minimum impregnation applications. Functionalization chemicals are applied with a liquor reservoir of only approx. 2.5 l for each m of working width. The reservoir can be used almost completely and no chemicals are wasted or disposed of. Impregnation as well as applications on one or on both sides is possible. Due to the little application quantity the following processes such as drying or curing have to evaporate only a low quantity of water that has clearly positive effects on the energy consumption of the respective dryer.


The new machine concept for a double sanfor line developed by BRÜCKNER together with the Italian company KLOPMAN INTERNATIONAL SRL meets the highest requirements regarding production capacity, shrinking values and fabric types to be finished. The special features of this line are two consecutively arranged rubber-belt shrinking machines in front of the felt calender. Due to the first shrinking machine the fabric reaches the second machine already pre-shrunk and with an optimum moisture. In the second step the fabric is extremely shrunk and leaves the line with a perfect hand. This BRÜCKNER development allows the finishing of high-quality articles in one pass with speeds up to 100 m/min.


The productivity and energy efficiency of a textile stenter are not only influenced by the technical design of the line but depend also to a high degree on the set process parameters and the know-how of the operators. For this reason BRÜCKNER developed a new software supporting the operator to control the stenter as effectively and energy-saving as possible. The heart of this software is a data base which contains the decades of experience with machine parameters in function of the fabric type to be finished. The really used machine parameters can be compared with desired recipes in order to identify waste, energy saving potentials and dormant capacity reserves over freely selectable periods of time. At the same time, the system monitors the conditions reducing the output and increasing the energy consumption such as soiling and generates suggestions for maintenance. The focus of this new development is to increase the performance further and to minimize the wastage.


Beside several innovations and developments Brückner also will have many high-tech suggestions for modifications and modernizations for the existent lines. An increase of the production capacity does not necessarily mean for the customer an investment in a new machine. With new lines or modernizations by BRÜCKNER you can count on highest productivity and performance! This is practiced sustainability for the production. Brückner will explain their customers her concepts and ideas for an energy-saving and sustainable operation or upgrade.

Posted in Finishing

Online Magazine

Sustainnovation September-November 2015


Sustainnovation July-September 2013







Sustainnovation April-June 2013

Sustainnovation January-March 2013




Posted in Finishing

Brückner nominated for the Environment Technology Award 2013

The Ministry for Environment, Climate and Energy decorates excellent environmental technologies which are contributing considerably to energy and resource efficiency and environmental protection with the Baden-Württemberg Environment Technology Award. The performance parameters of these product developments have the potential to set the benchmark for other existing technologies. The Environment Technology Award exists in Baden-Württemberg since 2009 and it gained more and more importance. The Land government considers sustainable and resource-saving technologies as one of the most important issues in this day and age.

BRÜCKNER, the textile machinery engineering company domiciled in Leonberg near Stuttgart has been nominated for the Environment Technology Award Baden-Württemberg 2013 in the category energy efficiency. With its energy-efficient textile finishing lines the medium-sized family-owned company supports its customers in their efforts to achieve a resource-saving and sustainable production. At the same time production costs can be reduced and the productivity can be increased. Mainly European customers can thus remain competitive and safeguard in the end jobs.

Since 1949 BRÜCKNER constructs and develops machinery and lines for the textile industry and until today the medium-sized company manufactures its machines exclusively in Germany. The recent installation of a technology centre with testing line at the Leonberg site allows to advance developments even faster and to implement product optimizations better and easier.

Posted in Finishing

ecorepel® wins OutDoor INDUSTRY AWARD 2013

OutDoor 2014: Schoeller’s sustainable DWR ecorepel® wins the renowned OutDoor INDUSTRY AWARD in Friedrichshafen in the category “products of high ecological and sustainable value”.

With the development of ecorepel®, Schoeller Technologies has introduced an innovative water and mud repellent textile finish on the basis of biodegradable paraffin chains in accordance with OECD 302 B (80-100%)). What impressed the Jury of this year’s OutDoor is the combination of exemplary environmental safety and uncompromising performance.

ecorepel®’s success at the fair confirms the rising expectations of the community for sustainable outdoor apparel. The discussions around fluorocarbons (PFC’s) have gained attention through the publication of the Greenpeace study in October 2012, making the public aware of these non-degradable compounds. ecorepel® resigns the use of fluorocarbons that have commonly been considered essential for DWR, and instead works with eco-friendly paraffin. Similar to a thin layer of wax, the long paraffin chains wrap themselves around individual fibers, thereby reducing their surface tension so that water droplets and even mud with significantly higher surface tension run off simply. ecorepel® contains neither PFOA nor PFOS and is biodegradable. Nevertheless, the finish shows excellent test results in terms of wash permanency and resistance to abrasion. The fact that ecorepel® has now won the OutDoor Industry Award may well be read as a trendsetting sign for the trade.

Schoeller Technologies AG

Schoeller Technologies offers smart and innovative textile technologies for various needs and requirements. The company is based in Switzerland and is globally active licensing its technologies since 2000. Schoeller Technologies is a subsidiary of Schoeller Textiles and focuses on the development of textile technologies that are made available to production partners in the form of patents and trademarks. Textile technologies from Schoeller have received numerous international awards and are featured in functional clothing and textiles of international premium brands. In addition, the major emphasis is placed on sustainable, environmentally conscious and responsible manufacturing.

Posted in Finishing

ecorepel® – an ideal combination of function and sustainability by Schoeller Technologies

Following its launch in January 2012, ecorepel® the PFC-free and water repelling high-tech finish from Schoeller Technologies, is firmly on course for major success. Many companies would like to use textiles that are ecologically water repelling have shown great interest in ecorepel®. What makes ecorepel® the right choice, is not only its environmentally friendly aspect, but also wide range of possible uses on different fibers and materials. The Greenpeace study “Chemistry for every weather” named ecorepel® as one of the alternatives for fluorine products.

In the development of ecorepel®, Schoeller found inspiration in nature. All waterfowl, for example ducks, produce an oily secretion to make their feathers water repelling. ecorepel® imitates exactly this sort of impregnation as it is based on long, biodegradable paraffin chains that wrap themselves as a spiral around the individual fibers, filaments or yarns in a very fine film. This reduces surface tension so that water droplets and even mud with significantly higher surface tension run off simply. The breathability is not affected and the feel remains pleasantly soft.

The possible uses for ecorepel® are wide-ranging. Applications on various fiber types such as wool, cotton and synthetic fibers have already tested successfully. Its effectiveness on fabrics like denim, soft-shell and fleece has also been proven.

ecorepel® is a wash resistant high-tech finish. As no fluorocarbons are used, it is biodegradable (in accordance with OECD 302 B (80 – 100 %)), passes the OEKOTEX®- Standard 100 test and complies with bluesign®.

Fluorcarbon-free finishing technologies continue to gain momentum as illustrated by the new discussions initiated by the recent Greenpeace study. This study shows ecorepel® as one of the PFC- free alternatives for water- and dirt repelling finishing.

Schoeller Technologies AG

Schoeller Technologies offers smart and innovative textile technologies for various needs and requirements. The company is based in Switzerland and is globally active licensing its technologies since 2000. Schoeller Technologies is a subsidiary of Schoeller Textiles and focuses on the development of textile technologies that are made available to production partners in the form of patents and trademarks. Textile technologies from Schoeller have received numerous international awards and are featured in functional clothing and textiles of international premium brands. In addition, the major emphasis is placed on sustainable, environmentally conscious and responsible manufacturing.

Posted in Finishing

Santex Energy Saving Chamber: Higher Productivity – better ROI

Santex is primarily involved with the finishing of knit fabrics. However, every stage from spinning, knitting to dyeing, affects the behaviour of the fabric and determines the fabrics characteristics and how the finishing machines need setting in order to achieve the best results. 

Reference to “best results” not only refers to fabric quality but also optimization of machine usage and minimising of costs.

The primary goal for any manufacturer is to produce on time, within specification and at the predicted cost. “Right First Time” is an often used term for the goals of a manufacturer but unless there is a high level of understanding of the materials that need processing, the process itself and the capabilities of the processing machines, this is unrealisable. To this end choosing the right partner as machine supplier will place the textile producer on a fast track to success.

Historically, in markets where the textile industry was less organised Santex Switzerland set out to provide a complete solution and technology transfer in order to enable the required results to be achieved quickly. As the markets became more organised the focus has moved to not only higher quality fabrics but also savings in process costs despite ever tightening environmental regulations.

The term “Right First Time” is mostly associated with the processing of the product itself and often ignores aspects such as power consumption, steam usage, maintenance and even staff. Although the term “Right First Time” hints also at the goal of “at minimal cost” clearly if all aspects involved in the process are not taken into consideration opportunities for minimising cost may be overlooked.

As an example, steam consumption for drying a single jersey fabric of between 160 to 200 gsm may vary from less than 1 kg steam per kg fabric to around 1.25kg steam per kg fabric. Differences may include whether it is a bleached or dyed fabric, whether the fabric is a dark or light shade and whether the stitch density is high or low.

The differences seen in drying performance between dark and light shades may in part be attributed to such factors as whether the fabric is well scoured or not. Some processes omit an intensive scour for dark fabrics with the intention to save chemicals and process time, but it is useful to analyse whether this affects batch repeatability as well as other issues, such as energy consumption during drying. For example, a good scouring may help to break the barriers of the outer surface of the cotton fibre and thereby improve both wetting, as well as evaporation of the moisture in the fibre. This is important for both drying as well as re-humidification during compacting. In this way an additional cost in one process may lead to an overall reduction in both time and cost for the finished fabric, so it is necessary to investigate where you can spend a little more in order to achieve a greater return overall.

Similarly the choice of machinery shouldn’t only look at installed power or heat exchanger capacity, but ultimately at what is the productivity and what the energy costs per kilo fabric are. In the end the cost of machinery is a lesser part of the overall cost of purchasing a machine particularly when future costs of power and fuel are likely to rise. In addition, features such as the high lofting action of Santashrink may also lead to less softener being necessary to achieve the required fabric feel.

Longer process times during dyeing tend to cause elongation of the knit loop structure and make restoring the loop structure to its fully relaxed state more difficult. Santastretch (for tubular fabrics) or Santashrink progress (open width) will help restore the loop structure so that further processing in Santashrink relax dryer will relax the fabric to the correct state for further processing.

Technologies for reducing process costs are readily available, but despite overwhelming benefits the Textile Industry can remain very conservative. Nova is one example.

NOVA uses dry cleaning fluid to remove oils (including silicon oils) waxes, and in the case of polyester also oligomers. The need for water, detergent chemicals and effluent treatment is avoided.

Compared with water scouring, Solvent scouring has six major benefits.

  1. It’s scouring effectiveness is 6 times higher than using detergents!
  2. NOVA is a dry in, dry out process, so fabrics can be scoured and stored for later processing if desired.
  3. The solvent used needs only about 10% of the energy that water requires for heating, which makes it very economical.
  4. There is no water used for scouring and therefore no corresponding effluent to treat.
  5. It needs water for cooling but this is completely uncontaminated with the additional benefit of being pre-heated.
  6. The solvent is almost completely recycled so chemical costs are extremely low.

Health and safety is often sited as a reason for non acceptance of such technology, but much is to do with a lack of understanding. NOVA is already well established and operating worldwide and in countries with the strictest legislation such as Switzerland, Germany, Italy, China and India, etc. so why is there so much resistance to such technology in some countries? Failure to embrace such advantageous technology restricts both process flexibility as well as process cost reduction.

In the near future more such advantageous technology will be released to the market, and a failure to truly understand such technology will only reduce the opportunities for an advantage over the competition. It is clear that further development in the technical ability of the workforce will be required in order to fully appreciate and take advantage of these emerging technologies, and of the machinery suppliers, such as Santex, who have the in house competence to assist their customers reach the next level.

Efficiency in the finishing house has still a lot of potential for improved machine usage and cost savings. Batch scheduling software is already well established in the Dyehouse, but is virtually unknown in the finishing section. If the finishing dept has machines from many different suppliers it is not possible to provide scheduling software and as some manufacturers may only make one or two types of finishing machine they have no incentive to developing a batch scheduling program. As a supplier of the full range of finishing machines Santex are able to provide a full solution including Santaccess, software which enables scheduling and historical data gathering for every batch that is processed through the Santex line, including maintenance tools which minimise machine maintenance costs.

With increased pricing pressure from buyers, ever increasing utilities costs and environmental constraints from governments the more efficient use of current equipment and the adoption of new technologies will enable textile manufacturers meet the new challenges of the market and a higher level of “Right First Time”.


Posted in Finishing

Clariant supports water saving efforts in textile manufacturing

Clariant, a world leader in specialty chemicals, supports the textile industry’s efforts toward sustainable freshwater management with the publishing of water-saving tips and technologies in a special edition of its “News Chat” newsletter.

Titled “Each Drop Counts – chemical solutions for reduced water consumption”, the publication provides guidance to textile customers willing to join a rising global effort to address water scarcity, as illustrated by initiatives such as the United Nations’ World Water Day on March 22, 2013, the Greenpeace “Detox” Campaign, or the sector’s brands and retailers’ Joint Roadmap towards Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals.

New ONE WAY Score Cards featured in the publication and on the Clariant website, demonstrate the percentage savings in water and energy consumption, chemical usage, time, carbon dioxide emissions and BOD/COD ratio achievable with its cutting-edge technologies compared to conventional processes. Clariant’s unique ONE WAY sustainability toolbox provides textile mills, manufacturers, brands and retailers with reliable facts and measurements to assist their selection of products and processes that aim at reconciling the twin objectives of ecology and economy.

The Score Cards highlight trail blazing savings potential, such as:

  • “Advanced Denim”, an award-winning dyeing process allowing potential savings of 92% in water consumption and 45% in energy consumption compared to conventional denim dyeing processes;
  • The “SWIFT” continuous dyeing process for PES/CEL Blends, which can help achieve up to 45% less CO2 emissions and 50% less water use compared to the conventional process;
  • The “Ultra low liquor ratio cellulosic dyeing” process which can show reductions of up to 43% in energy consumption and 25% in water consumption compared to the benchmark process;
  • The “BLUE MAGIC” process for discontinuous treatment that can allow savings of up to 50% in water, 40% in energy and 50% in time compared to classical bleaching processes.

The contribution of Clariant’s technologies to global water saving efforts is already evident. In 2012, Clariant calculated that its Advanced Denim technology saved an estimated 700 million liters of water, yet it is used in only an extremely small part of worldwide jeans’ production.

And the company is definitely living by its own creed: In May 2012, Clariant started operating what it believes is the first-ever sustainable effluent treatment (SET) facility for a textile operational site. The facility is located in Jamshoro, Pakistan.

Emrah Esder, Head of Marketing for Chemicals at Clariant’s Textile Chemicals Business Unit, comments: “With the ONE WAY toolbox we are going the extra mile to encourage and support greater resource saving by the textile industry. It puts transparent and reliable facts about how new available technologies help answer brands’ and retailers’ requirements for more sustainability – at controlled cost levels – at their fingertips.”

Posted in Finishing

Sustainable Color | From Inspiration To Creation

Color Solutions International (CSI) is a division of DyStar providing brands and retailers with a variety of sustainable color services.

Color is a crucial element of brand identity as well as consumer appeal. Management of color from design to retail is a complex and time-consuming task for most major apparel brands and retailers.

The CSI ColorWall™ system offers approximately 4,000 colors dyed on textiles and created with the high performance, RSL compliant and eco-clean profile of the DyStar dyes and chemicals. CSI also creates custom and tailor made colors.

Read the full story

Posted in Finishing